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Performance & DYNO Guide[UPDATED 4/4/2020]] - MisterJohnson - 12-04-2017
General Performance Tuning Guide
Updated 29th of October of 2020
Updated 29th of October of 2020
-A very important Note was added: Center of Mass VS Tire Pressure
-New cars added to the list(Picador)
-Counthash has been editted
Intro
This post, is much more a guide to unexperienced players, it will advice those who doesn't knows how to tune their cars to make them
behave how they would like, so, let's start with basic things and increase the guide's complexity as soon as the basics gets explained..
NOTE: This isn't a guide to help you to earn more RP, cash or win more races (even though it eventually will lead you to it) it
all depends on how you drive your car, and your adapt to the performance setting you're using on it
What means 3/3/3 , 2/1/3 ?? ?
This is a very basic question, this slang is pretty much used on NFS:SA so let's explain it...
Every car has 3 types of upgrades that has 4 upgrading levels, these 3 Upgrade Types may be called:
Power Pack (which contains: Engine, Transmission and ECU)
Grip Pack(which contains: Tires, Suspension and Brakes)
Control Pack(which contains: Weight Reduction, Turbo and Nitro)
they have 4 upgrade levels, they are:
-Stock
-Street
-Racing
-Pro
these levels can be represented respectivelly by the numbers: 0,1,2 and 3 and when you see someone telling you
to put your car at 3/0/3, he's telling you to Upgrade the Power Pack and Control Pack to Pro Level and Leave Grip Level just like how it is...
Every car has 3 types of upgrades that has 4 upgrading levels, these 3 Upgrade Types may be called:
Power Pack (which contains: Engine, Transmission and ECU)
Grip Pack(which contains: Tires, Suspension and Brakes)
Control Pack(which contains: Weight Reduction, Turbo and Nitro)
they have 4 upgrade levels, they are:
-Stock
-Street
-Racing
-Pro
these levels can be represented respectivelly by the numbers: 0,1,2 and 3 and when you see someone telling you
to put your car at 3/0/3, he's telling you to Upgrade the Power Pack and Control Pack to Pro Level and Leave Grip Level just like how it is...
What's Understeer and Oversteer?
These are 2 ways that a car can take a corner: Understeering and Oversteering
Understeering is the Slower and Safest way to steer your car
it's when your car have too much grip, having too much grip, means that your car will go through corners without sliding...but, if your car is too fast, you won't perform the corner, you will end up hitting a wall, that's why you will need to reduce your speed before going through a
corner. (That's the common technique to turn a FWD)
Oversteer is the Faster and Dangerous way to steer your car
it's when you're steering your car and it steers more than it can handle without drifting, means that your car will slide on corners and if you don't control it, it will spin off,
but, controling this steering technique will allow you to take corners much faster than understeering (That's how a RWD turns)
Understeering is the Slower and Safest way to steer your car
it's when your car have too much grip, having too much grip, means that your car will go through corners without sliding...but, if your car is too fast, you won't perform the corner, you will end up hitting a wall, that's why you will need to reduce your speed before going through a
corner. (That's the common technique to turn a FWD)
Oversteer is the Faster and Dangerous way to steer your car
it's when you're steering your car and it steers more than it can handle without drifting, means that your car will slide on corners and if you don't control it, it will spin off,
but, controling this steering technique will allow you to take corners much faster than understeering (That's how a RWD turns)
What's Slicking?
Basically...slicking is roaming to the left and the right to avoid obstacles or take better positions on the road before a corner
What's the diference between Short, Long, Open and Tight Corners???
Every Corner has 2 attributes...it's size...and it's Angle
the size of it, it's basically the size...how long the corner lasts...normally, the longer the corner, higher the speeds you can take it...
Though there's the corner's angle..it determines how closed is the corner...an Open corner is easy to be steered...a Tight Corner Requires
more attention...
Example of Short Tight Corner: it's any "U" Corner
Example of a Long Tight Corner, it's an "Omega-like corner" (This format: Ω, though it's much bigger like Airport 4 Long U turn)
Example of a Short Open Corner it's any "L" Corner
Example of a Short Tight Corner it's any "V" Corner
the size of it, it's basically the size...how long the corner lasts...normally, the longer the corner, higher the speeds you can take it...
Though there's the corner's angle..it determines how closed is the corner...an Open corner is easy to be steered...a Tight Corner Requires
more attention...
Example of Short Tight Corner: it's any "U" Corner
Example of a Long Tight Corner, it's an "Omega-like corner" (This format: Ω, though it's much bigger like Airport 4 Long U turn)
Example of a Short Open Corner it's any "L" Corner
Example of a Short Tight Corner it's any "V" Corner
What should I Upgrade???
This is probably the golden Question, which can be answered with another question: "Depends on what you want to do in your car..."
Well...What I can tell you...you could possibly want 4 things...A car to Drift, a Car to use on Porsuits, a Car for Straight Races or a
car to Cornering Races...
Well...after deciding what you want to do with your car, now we can tell you how you need your car to Behave:
Drift Car
A Drift car must be Light, have a decent acceleration and of course, it should be a RWD (or a 4WD if you're up for it), installing tires to this type of car is a bad idea, keeping them stock is better, drift cars needs some acceleration. When it comes to the suspension, you will find that a high car tends to lose control easier, a soft suspension will hold back your drifting as much as a rear biased suspension, the best alteranative is to keep a slightly hardened suspension on a low and balanced car. The steering angle should be something that you're familiar with, the common one is a good start, you should make it wide if you know how to control your car and knows what you're doing, if its hazzardous to be controlled, make it narrow...
The car weight balance can't be something unknown to you, try to keep it on the center of the car to begin, if you think your car is drifting off too much, put the mass on the rear, if you feel it should drift more, put the mass on the front
Porsuit Car
A Porsuit Car can't spin off easily, otherwise Cop Cars will Overwheelm you easily on simple colisions, although, it must be really fast, it should be able to take a sudden boost and get rid off a potential arrest, so...grip tires. center of mass turned to the rear, low suspension slightly biased to the front, combined with a wide steering angle is the ideal combination.
Straight Races Car
You need a car with decent Power, though, priorize top speed if you see that your car is reaching it's limits easily, Grip enough to be able to control at high speeds but not too much because it will understeer and make you lose too much speed on corners, you can always begin by spending as much as you can on power until it reaches the desired score (Always buy Tires first).
At the desired score you should start doing tests, you can keep drifty tires and center of mass towards the rear. Then test on many tracks, make tires grippier if you feel like losing it too easily but be careful to not end up making it too grippy. If you feel like taking on corners with more caution and less haste you can push the center of mass to the Front, this way you'll have a good cornering power at high speeds (But be careful, this can backfire)
Cornering Races Car
You need a very tricky car to perform this kind of race with the best performance
it's power/grip must be matched in order to lose less speed before corners, don't spin off during corners and having a good acceleration feedback after a corner, though, too much grip can make you understeer and lose speed, so, if you have to choose between understeer or oversteer, pick oversteer. A slightly high and soft suspension, with a wide steering angle, drifty tires, high downforce, center of mass tilted to the rear, and, if you may take advice, a Stock Engine and ECU, is a great combination for a narrow and curvy races' car
Well...What I can tell you...you could possibly want 4 things...A car to Drift, a Car to use on Porsuits, a Car for Straight Races or a
car to Cornering Races...
Well...after deciding what you want to do with your car, now we can tell you how you need your car to Behave:
Drift Car
A Drift car must be Light, have a decent acceleration and of course, it should be a RWD (or a 4WD if you're up for it), installing tires to this type of car is a bad idea, keeping them stock is better, drift cars needs some acceleration. When it comes to the suspension, you will find that a high car tends to lose control easier, a soft suspension will hold back your drifting as much as a rear biased suspension, the best alteranative is to keep a slightly hardened suspension on a low and balanced car. The steering angle should be something that you're familiar with, the common one is a good start, you should make it wide if you know how to control your car and knows what you're doing, if its hazzardous to be controlled, make it narrow...
The car weight balance can't be something unknown to you, try to keep it on the center of the car to begin, if you think your car is drifting off too much, put the mass on the rear, if you feel it should drift more, put the mass on the front
Porsuit Car
A Porsuit Car can't spin off easily, otherwise Cop Cars will Overwheelm you easily on simple colisions, although, it must be really fast, it should be able to take a sudden boost and get rid off a potential arrest, so...grip tires. center of mass turned to the rear, low suspension slightly biased to the front, combined with a wide steering angle is the ideal combination.
Straight Races Car
You need a car with decent Power, though, priorize top speed if you see that your car is reaching it's limits easily, Grip enough to be able to control at high speeds but not too much because it will understeer and make you lose too much speed on corners, you can always begin by spending as much as you can on power until it reaches the desired score (Always buy Tires first).
At the desired score you should start doing tests, you can keep drifty tires and center of mass towards the rear. Then test on many tracks, make tires grippier if you feel like losing it too easily but be careful to not end up making it too grippy. If you feel like taking on corners with more caution and less haste you can push the center of mass to the Front, this way you'll have a good cornering power at high speeds (But be careful, this can backfire)
Cornering Races Car
You need a very tricky car to perform this kind of race with the best performance
it's power/grip must be matched in order to lose less speed before corners, don't spin off during corners and having a good acceleration feedback after a corner, though, too much grip can make you understeer and lose speed, so, if you have to choose between understeer or oversteer, pick oversteer. A slightly high and soft suspension, with a wide steering angle, drifty tires, high downforce, center of mass tilted to the rear, and, if you may take advice, a Stock Engine and ECU, is a great combination for a narrow and curvy races' car
Well...now that you know what you want, we need to know Which car you're driving, this way...you will know which upgrades use on each car,
well...most of the times...people want a car that can do all these stuff...well...I'll tell you...You can find the balance betwen 2 or even 3 of these
cars you want, but, this car for all-kind of races won't be beat a car that have been tuned specificly for the kind of race that they are competing
Below...there's the list of cars I've already Drove enough to take notice from some of their advantages and down sides, I will give you some information that can help you to build up a good dyno
Manana
Driving Train: Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
Weight: Light
Grip: Medium/High
Power: Low
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Wheel-Locking after braking at high speed
Advantages: City Slicking/Cornering...excelent car for beginners
Suggestion: Drifty tires, brake bias to the rear, no downforce, wide steering angle, high and suspension biased to the rear
Primo
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Light
Grip: Medium
Power: Low/Medium
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Tight control
Advantages: Fast Cornering, excellent for experienced drivers that are beggining on NFS SA
Suggestion: Don't be afraid of it's tight control, its certainly hard to control, though the benefits are great, so, don't put too much grip on it
Futo
Driving Train: Rear Wheel drive (RWD)
Weight: Light
Grip: Medium
Power: Low
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: High Speed Corners, Lack of Raw Power
Advantages: Most Balanced Car you can find for City Racing and Drift
Suggestion: Even though its a RWD, it has the same problem of manana, it brakes oddly at high speeds, and won't steer much, so, I suggest you to pick a "stable drifty" build, so you can drift it at high speeds and not get rampaged at low speed corners
Intruder
Driving Train: Rear Wheel drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium
Stability: Low
Weaknesses: High Speed Corners, Bumps
Advantages: Good acceleration and steering rate
Suggestion: A very-high and soft suspension is at demand if you wish to use it on street racing, the high suspension will also help it to release this car's stuck wheels, but once you do it, you must be careful with short corners
Previon
Driving Train: Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
Weight: Medium/Light
Grip: High
Power: Low/Medium
Stability: High
Weaknesses: Tight Corners will cause it to Understeer, losing too much speed
Advantages: Superior Control over Mid/Long Corners
Suggestion: just focus on keeping this car balanced with minor changes
Cadrona
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Easy to lose Control
Advantages: Good for all kind of corners, though you need decent skills to handle it properly
Suggestion: it's steering is pretty locked, so, releasing it with a wide steering angle and increase the car height is a good alternative to fix it, though, you should be more careful at corners
Fortune
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: High
Power: Medium
Stability: Medium/High
Weaknesses: Understeers too much
Advantages: Very Reliable on Long Corners, Long Straights and bumpy roads
Suggestion: Smoothing it's driving is crucial for a better performance, very similar to cadrona
Emperor
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Grip: Medium/High
Power: Low/Medium
Stability: Medium/High
Weaknesses: Tight Corners
Advantages: High Stability at High Speeds
Suggestion: Smoothing the driving is also an alternative, though, you'll need to make it super drifty if you're expecting it to have a decent performance
Sentinel
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Heavy
Grip: Medium/High
Power: High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Short/Tight Corners
Advantages: Long Straights, Long Corners, Excellent control at high speeds
Suggestion: Its pretty stuck, loosen it's rear a bit and soft up it's corners being careful to do not make it uncontrolable at high speeds
Blista Compact
Driving Train: Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
Weight: Low/Medium
Grip: High
Power: Low/Medium
Stability: Low
Weaknesses: Bumpy Roads, too much Understeer
Advantages: Hardly you will spin, so...force it to the max at corners
Suggestion: Sell it
Tampa
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Grip: Medium
Power: Low/Medium
Stability: High
Weaknesses: Tight Corners
Advantages: Despite being slipery and not recommended for tight corners, it has a very reliable suspension and stability
Suggestion: Raise the suspension, soften it, bias it to the rear, bias the center of mass to the rear and find a balance on the tires, it's not the best, but it can be a really reliable Jack of all trades
Stallion
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Loses grip at too high speeds, and slides considerably easily on tight corners
Advantages: Has some considerable acceleration power
Suggestion: Balanced Suspension, rear center of mass, tires between -10 and -5
Phoenix
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Medium/High
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Can understeer a lot, and if too much pressed, spins off, so, not much of a good choice for tight corners
Advantages: Insane Raw power, good suspension, decent controlability for a muscle
Suggestion: High n stiff suspension, Oversteers it as much as you can on long corners so you can keep pushing your speedometer, don't be afraid to let it slide on corners, but make sure it's a controlled slide
Sabre
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Grip: Low
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium/High
Weaknesses: Tight Corners
Advantages: Good SUspension, will slide, but won't spin off that easily
Suggestion: High suspension biased to the rear, rear center of mass, tires between -8 and -2
Picador
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Heavy
Grip: Low
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium/High
Weaknesses: Tight Corners and it's too heavy
Advantages: Good Suspension, Hits like a train on porsuits
Suggestion: Balanced Weight Distribution, not full drift tires, full top speed, not so high suspension, but soft
Flash
Driving Train: Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
Weight: Light / Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium
Stability: High
Weaknesses: Overtightening corners, wide lamp breaker
Advantages: short corners which requires agility but not a really wide steering rate
Suggestion: Smoothening of the drivability, drifty tires, rear center of mass, low/medium downforce
Uranus
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: LMedium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Tight Corners and Long Straights
Advantages: Long Straights, Long Straights, you can achieve great results by investing less on handling and more on power
Suggestion: A Rear center of mass combo with a drifty and smooth setup can make miracles
Euros
Driving Train: All Wheel Drive (AWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Medium/High
Power: Medium
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Tight Corners and Long Straights
Advantages: Slicking/Cornering...excelent car for unexperiienced players that wouldn't like to risk too much at corners
Suggestion: Make it drifty
Sultan
Driving Train: Four Wheel Drive(FWD) or All Wheel Drive (AWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Short Corners (Understeers too much)
Advantages: Superior Control over Long Corners, Long Straights and safe to go through a bump
Suggestion: Find the thick division between grip and drift and it will become a real street racing monster
Mamba
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive(RWD)
Weight: Heavy
Grip: Medium
Power: Very High
Stability: Low
Weaknesses: Cornering
Advantages: Long Straights
Suggestion: Currently, the most overpowered car, with a powerful engine, you need to make up a dyno to control such raw power, luckily, drifty tires with full downforce and weight full backwards leaves you with few personal suspension settings. Personally, just soft it up it's good if you're seeking to maintain a balanced driving style
ZR-130
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive(RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Short and fast corners
Advantages: Straights and long corners
Suggestion: THe New Unique Body kits can improve it's controlability, but the suspension is still messed up
Jester
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Medium/High
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: If you force it too much, it will exceed it's oversteering and spin off
Advantages: Can Take corners real quickly and very reliable at high speeds
Suggestion: bend it's steering towards drifting, uninstall ECU, Don't put the center of mass on the rear end, make it something between -8 and -5, not full drift tires
Elegy
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Grip: Medium/Heavy
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Short/Tight Corners / Slicking
Advantages: Reliable at High Speeds and a good acceleration after cornering (not to mention it's the best drift car you'll find)
Suggestion: Center of mass to the rear, drifty tires
Super GT
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: None
Advantages: It's stock suspension makes miracles, allowing to add more power to it
Suggestion: Since it's already slippery, don't use full Drift Tires, add rear center of mass and find the most suitable dyno for yourself between -4 and 4 to the tires
Cheetah
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Dangerous Oversteer and a disaster on bumpy roads
Advantages: The Ultimate Car on Quick Cornering
Suggestion: drifty Tires, center of mass to the rear, high suspension, slightly softened suspension, full downforce
Infernus
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive(RWD)
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Grip: High
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Bumpy Roads and Short Cornering/Slicking
Advantages: The Ultimate car on Top Speed and Top Speed Control,and on cornering too
Suggestion: Same as cheetah, It's utmostly powerful form is Without Body Kit
Comet
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive(RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Too Light and Requires deep knowledge of handling physics (or pure instinct) to control it after cornering
Advantages: Most Balanced car on A Class, with the right tuning and right technique it will become the Demi-God of cornering races
Suggestion: Do not install body kit, soft it up to face corners without losing much grip
Banshee
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive(RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low
Weaknesses: "Awww, what a cute sidewalk..."*Banshee Frontflips*(Needs PRO Suspension), spins a lot
Advantages: Has some insane acceleration, with the right tuning and some serious driving techniques it will become the Devil of Cornering races
Suggestion: Like most sport cars, soften up it's suspension, though, do not make tires drifty, try center of mass to the front and tires bent towards griping
Turismo
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Medium/High
Power: High
Stability: Low
Weaknesses: Long Corners and Tight Corners
Advantages: Slicking, Medium Straights and Medium Corners
Suggestion: Sell it
Bullet
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: High
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Slicky roads
Advantages: Great overall Steering, Best Top Speed/Acceleration
Suggestion: same as Cheetah and Infernus
Counthash
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Tight Corners, spins off easily if you force it on corners
Advantages: High Slicking Stability, Long Corners, High Stability at High Speeds
Suggestion: Use "Works Motorsports" Bodykit or the Countach one, you don't want any tire more drifty than -5 and on Aerodynamics, you'll want the center of pass towards the rear (but not fully on the rear) and the downforce on zero, YES on Zero, Counthash is stable enough at higher speeds, if you put it on 10, it will understeer to death on long corners
Driving Train: Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
Weight: Light
Grip: Medium/High
Power: Low
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Wheel-Locking after braking at high speed
Advantages: City Slicking/Cornering...excelent car for beginners
Suggestion: Drifty tires, brake bias to the rear, no downforce, wide steering angle, high and suspension biased to the rear
Primo
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Light
Grip: Medium
Power: Low/Medium
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Tight control
Advantages: Fast Cornering, excellent for experienced drivers that are beggining on NFS SA
Suggestion: Don't be afraid of it's tight control, its certainly hard to control, though the benefits are great, so, don't put too much grip on it
Futo
Driving Train: Rear Wheel drive (RWD)
Weight: Light
Grip: Medium
Power: Low
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: High Speed Corners, Lack of Raw Power
Advantages: Most Balanced Car you can find for City Racing and Drift
Suggestion: Even though its a RWD, it has the same problem of manana, it brakes oddly at high speeds, and won't steer much, so, I suggest you to pick a "stable drifty" build, so you can drift it at high speeds and not get rampaged at low speed corners
Intruder
Driving Train: Rear Wheel drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium
Stability: Low
Weaknesses: High Speed Corners, Bumps
Advantages: Good acceleration and steering rate
Suggestion: A very-high and soft suspension is at demand if you wish to use it on street racing, the high suspension will also help it to release this car's stuck wheels, but once you do it, you must be careful with short corners
Previon
Driving Train: Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
Weight: Medium/Light
Grip: High
Power: Low/Medium
Stability: High
Weaknesses: Tight Corners will cause it to Understeer, losing too much speed
Advantages: Superior Control over Mid/Long Corners
Suggestion: just focus on keeping this car balanced with minor changes
Cadrona
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Easy to lose Control
Advantages: Good for all kind of corners, though you need decent skills to handle it properly
Suggestion: it's steering is pretty locked, so, releasing it with a wide steering angle and increase the car height is a good alternative to fix it, though, you should be more careful at corners
Fortune
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: High
Power: Medium
Stability: Medium/High
Weaknesses: Understeers too much
Advantages: Very Reliable on Long Corners, Long Straights and bumpy roads
Suggestion: Smoothing it's driving is crucial for a better performance, very similar to cadrona
Emperor
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Grip: Medium/High
Power: Low/Medium
Stability: Medium/High
Weaknesses: Tight Corners
Advantages: High Stability at High Speeds
Suggestion: Smoothing the driving is also an alternative, though, you'll need to make it super drifty if you're expecting it to have a decent performance
Sentinel
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Heavy
Grip: Medium/High
Power: High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Short/Tight Corners
Advantages: Long Straights, Long Corners, Excellent control at high speeds
Suggestion: Its pretty stuck, loosen it's rear a bit and soft up it's corners being careful to do not make it uncontrolable at high speeds
Blista Compact
Driving Train: Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
Weight: Low/Medium
Grip: High
Power: Low/Medium
Stability: Low
Weaknesses: Bumpy Roads, too much Understeer
Advantages: Hardly you will spin, so...force it to the max at corners
Suggestion: Sell it
Tampa
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Grip: Medium
Power: Low/Medium
Stability: High
Weaknesses: Tight Corners
Advantages: Despite being slipery and not recommended for tight corners, it has a very reliable suspension and stability
Suggestion: Raise the suspension, soften it, bias it to the rear, bias the center of mass to the rear and find a balance on the tires, it's not the best, but it can be a really reliable Jack of all trades
Stallion
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Loses grip at too high speeds, and slides considerably easily on tight corners
Advantages: Has some considerable acceleration power
Suggestion: Balanced Suspension, rear center of mass, tires between -10 and -5
Phoenix
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Medium/High
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Can understeer a lot, and if too much pressed, spins off, so, not much of a good choice for tight corners
Advantages: Insane Raw power, good suspension, decent controlability for a muscle
Suggestion: High n stiff suspension, Oversteers it as much as you can on long corners so you can keep pushing your speedometer, don't be afraid to let it slide on corners, but make sure it's a controlled slide
Sabre
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Grip: Low
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium/High
Weaknesses: Tight Corners
Advantages: Good SUspension, will slide, but won't spin off that easily
Suggestion: High suspension biased to the rear, rear center of mass, tires between -8 and -2
Picador
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Heavy
Grip: Low
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium/High
Weaknesses: Tight Corners and it's too heavy
Advantages: Good Suspension, Hits like a train on porsuits
Suggestion: Balanced Weight Distribution, not full drift tires, full top speed, not so high suspension, but soft
Flash
Driving Train: Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
Weight: Light / Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium
Stability: High
Weaknesses: Overtightening corners, wide lamp breaker
Advantages: short corners which requires agility but not a really wide steering rate
Suggestion: Smoothening of the drivability, drifty tires, rear center of mass, low/medium downforce
Uranus
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: LMedium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Tight Corners and Long Straights
Advantages: Long Straights, Long Straights, you can achieve great results by investing less on handling and more on power
Suggestion: A Rear center of mass combo with a drifty and smooth setup can make miracles
Euros
Driving Train: All Wheel Drive (AWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Medium/High
Power: Medium
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Tight Corners and Long Straights
Advantages: Slicking/Cornering...excelent car for unexperiienced players that wouldn't like to risk too much at corners
Suggestion: Make it drifty
Sultan
Driving Train: Four Wheel Drive(FWD) or All Wheel Drive (AWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Short Corners (Understeers too much)
Advantages: Superior Control over Long Corners, Long Straights and safe to go through a bump
Suggestion: Find the thick division between grip and drift and it will become a real street racing monster
Mamba
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive(RWD)
Weight: Heavy
Grip: Medium
Power: Very High
Stability: Low
Weaknesses: Cornering
Advantages: Long Straights
Suggestion: Currently, the most overpowered car, with a powerful engine, you need to make up a dyno to control such raw power, luckily, drifty tires with full downforce and weight full backwards leaves you with few personal suspension settings. Personally, just soft it up it's good if you're seeking to maintain a balanced driving style
ZR-130
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive(RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Short and fast corners
Advantages: Straights and long corners
Suggestion: THe New Unique Body kits can improve it's controlability, but the suspension is still messed up
Jester
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Medium/High
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: If you force it too much, it will exceed it's oversteering and spin off
Advantages: Can Take corners real quickly and very reliable at high speeds
Suggestion: bend it's steering towards drifting, uninstall ECU, Don't put the center of mass on the rear end, make it something between -8 and -5, not full drift tires
Elegy
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Grip: Medium/Heavy
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Short/Tight Corners / Slicking
Advantages: Reliable at High Speeds and a good acceleration after cornering (not to mention it's the best drift car you'll find)
Suggestion: Center of mass to the rear, drifty tires
Super GT
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: None
Advantages: It's stock suspension makes miracles, allowing to add more power to it
Suggestion: Since it's already slippery, don't use full Drift Tires, add rear center of mass and find the most suitable dyno for yourself between -4 and 4 to the tires
Cheetah
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Dangerous Oversteer and a disaster on bumpy roads
Advantages: The Ultimate Car on Quick Cornering
Suggestion: drifty Tires, center of mass to the rear, high suspension, slightly softened suspension, full downforce
Infernus
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive(RWD)
Weight: Medium/Heavy
Grip: High
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Bumpy Roads and Short Cornering/Slicking
Advantages: The Ultimate car on Top Speed and Top Speed Control,and on cornering too
Suggestion: Same as cheetah, It's utmostly powerful form is Without Body Kit
Comet
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive(RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Too Light and Requires deep knowledge of handling physics (or pure instinct) to control it after cornering
Advantages: Most Balanced car on A Class, with the right tuning and right technique it will become the Demi-God of cornering races
Suggestion: Do not install body kit, soft it up to face corners without losing much grip
Banshee
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive(RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low
Weaknesses: "Awww, what a cute sidewalk..."*Banshee Frontflips*(Needs PRO Suspension), spins a lot
Advantages: Has some insane acceleration, with the right tuning and some serious driving techniques it will become the Devil of Cornering races
Suggestion: Like most sport cars, soften up it's suspension, though, do not make tires drifty, try center of mass to the front and tires bent towards griping
Turismo
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Medium/High
Power: High
Stability: Low
Weaknesses: Long Corners and Tight Corners
Advantages: Slicking, Medium Straights and Medium Corners
Suggestion: Sell it
Bullet
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Medium
Grip: Medium
Power: High
Stability: Medium
Weaknesses: Slicky roads
Advantages: Great overall Steering, Best Top Speed/Acceleration
Suggestion: same as Cheetah and Infernus
Counthash
Driving Train: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)
Weight: Light/Medium
Grip: Low/Medium
Power: Medium/High
Stability: Low/Medium
Weaknesses: Tight Corners, spins off easily if you force it on corners
Advantages: High Slicking Stability, Long Corners, High Stability at High Speeds
Suggestion: Use "Works Motorsports" Bodykit or the Countach one, you don't want any tire more drifty than -5 and on Aerodynamics, you'll want the center of pass towards the rear (but not fully on the rear) and the downforce on zero, YES on Zero, Counthash is stable enough at higher speeds, if you put it on 10, it will understeer to death on long corners
Well...at some rate, you're the person that knows your car the best, and you may know what's happening to it that's letting you down (otherwise you're just a car crash test dummy that simply drives expecting the car does everything for you)
but..here lies a question once you start upgrading a car...
What to Upgrade First?
Well...We got 3 main aspects to worry about, Grip, Acceleration and Top Speed, well..once you know your car you will know what exactly
you need to upgrade to fix it's flaws but, what to do once your car is balanced??
Well...it all depends on the kind of race and the kind of driver you care...
you need to upgrade to fix it's flaws but, what to do once your car is balanced??
Well...it all depends on the kind of race and the kind of driver you care...
The most Recommended Upgrade is Technically ACCELERATION:
-If you suck at corners and can't control your car properly on high speeeds, acceleration is the best for you, you will get a headstart from your
opponents and even recover from corners that you fail completely, Acceleration is what you need, so for acceleration, choose CONTROL PACK(Weight Reduction, Nitro and Turbo)
opponents and even recover from corners that you fail completely, Acceleration is what you need, so for acceleration, choose CONTROL PACK(Weight Reduction, Nitro and Turbo)
About HANDLING:
-If you are a patient, reliable, cold blooded xaolin monk driver, Handling will be the best for you, You like to win races proceeding with caution and completing corners as cleaner as possible, you wait your opponents ahead of you to fail on a hard corner that you drive well enough to not fail, your driving style presses your opponent to make them reach their limit, and once this limit is broken it's when you shine, so, for you, the HANDLING PACK (Tires,Suspension and Brakes) will be the best option
About TOP SPEED:
-Top Speed isn't quite the easiest choice, filling up your car with more top speed than ACCELERATION and HANDLING turns you into a precise driver or onto a reckless driver, the difference between these 2 is the amount of races that you win, to drive will a high speed performance, you can't be frightened to roll on corners faster than you should, well...do this with a balanced car it's easy, but with a car overly top speeded you must force the straights to win races, every corner you get on will be risky as you don't have much Handling, also, if you Slow down too much, you won't have enough ACCELERATION power to recover, so, Top Speed spec isn't really recommended, try it at your own risk (Engine, ECU and Drivetrain)
Knowing the Problem, you will be able to solve them upgrading or downgrading your car parts, below, I'll detail the effects I've detected so
far with upgrades:
Power Pack
Grip Pack
Tires-Increases a bit of acceleration and overall steering potential
Suspension-Makes your Suspension more malleable, giving you some potential to handle the car's weight through corners
Brakes-Increases the power of your brakes
Control Pack
Weight Reduction-Increases some Acceleration at low speeds, reduces Grip a bit and slightly reduces stability at high speeds
Turbo-Increases the Car's Acceleration drastically
Nitro-Nitro
ONE REALLY IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT NITRO
Nitro isn't an upgrade that you should use on all your builds.
We all know that nitro gives that insane power outburst for some very needed moments, but, here's the thing: Is it worth?
Note #1: On the average, Level 3 nitro uses from 16-19 Score points on your car, a small price to pay for that instantaneous boost, but there's a catch, Not many had noticed, but once you release nitro, it slightly decreases your car's speed for a moment before giving you that boost, so it's safe to presume that, the most efficient way to use nitro, is to use everything at once, and the least effective would be to spam short bursts.
Note #2: Also, there's a natural flaw on Nitro, it only lasts for some moments, not the entire race, also, having that in mind, it's safe to presume that nitro becomes less effective depending on the Lenght of the race...On the Long run, you'll be jeopardized because your nitro is on cooldown.
Note #3: As a natural consequence of note #2, we can presume that lower nitro levels lasts even less than the max level (PRO upgrade tier) but it takes the same amount of time to Recharge, so, it's not worth to install Street and Racing Nitro Levels (Unless there's not really anything else to install to improve the car's power)
Having these 3 informations in mind, the driver should measure whether it's worth or not to install Nitro, or replace it with a Power Part that will boost the car's power during all the race, not just for a moment
Engine-Increases Car's Raw Power, increases a little acceleration, a lot of Top Speed and decreases a bit of grip
Transmission-Upgrades Acceleration and Top Speed...but Top speed is increased a lot more than accel.
ECU-Increases Accel. and Top Speed Equaly and decreases steering rate harshly since it will hold it from spinning off easily
Grip Pack
Tires-Increases a bit of acceleration and overall steering potential
Suspension-Makes your Suspension more malleable, giving you some potential to handle the car's weight through corners
Brakes-Increases the power of your brakes
Control Pack
Weight Reduction-Increases some Acceleration at low speeds, reduces Grip a bit and slightly reduces stability at high speeds
Turbo-Increases the Car's Acceleration drastically
Nitro-Nitro
ONE REALLY IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT NITRO
Nitro isn't an upgrade that you should use on all your builds.
We all know that nitro gives that insane power outburst for some very needed moments, but, here's the thing: Is it worth?
Note #1: On the average, Level 3 nitro uses from 16-19 Score points on your car, a small price to pay for that instantaneous boost, but there's a catch, Not many had noticed, but once you release nitro, it slightly decreases your car's speed for a moment before giving you that boost, so it's safe to presume that, the most efficient way to use nitro, is to use everything at once, and the least effective would be to spam short bursts.
Note #2: Also, there's a natural flaw on Nitro, it only lasts for some moments, not the entire race, also, having that in mind, it's safe to presume that nitro becomes less effective depending on the Lenght of the race...On the Long run, you'll be jeopardized because your nitro is on cooldown.
Note #3: As a natural consequence of note #2, we can presume that lower nitro levels lasts even less than the max level (PRO upgrade tier) but it takes the same amount of time to Recharge, so, it's not worth to install Street and Racing Nitro Levels (Unless there's not really anything else to install to improve the car's power)
Having these 3 informations in mind, the driver should measure whether it's worth or not to install Nitro, or replace it with a Power Part that will boost the car's power during all the race, not just for a moment
Dyno
Here's a brief resume of what every dyno setting does:
Drivetrain
This adjustments changes the size of your drivetrain's gears, smaller gears will spin faster, though, they'll reach their maximum rate of rotations quickly, larger gears will take longer to get speed but will have a higher limit...so...
Acceleration = More Acceleration, Less Top Speed
Top Speed = Less Acceleration, More Top Speed
(OBS: Currently, it's better to leave it as it since it's not worth sacrificing too much of one for a bit of the other)
Suspension Stiffness
The Suspension Stiffness will determine the gradual force which will be placed upon the tires during a corner.
Soft/Loose = A soft suspension will allow you to turn with more stability but your car will take a bit longer to reach it's maximum steering rate, while a stiff suspension
Hard/Stiff = will make you steer faster, though, not giving your tires much choice if not, lose grip and slide
Suspension Height
The suspension Height will directly affect your suspension stiffness and the possibility of getting prejudicated by sidewalks and bumps..
High = your steering will become hardened, become very stable and will get it's steering rate decreased, a gripful choice
Low = your car's steering will be softened, will increase it's steering rate but will reduce it's stability during corners
Suspension Bias
Allows you to decide if you want a higher rear or a higher front (just leave it on the middle if you don't know what you want, FWDs try +2, RWD try -2)
Front = your car front will be pumped up, giving you an instantaneous acceleration power, though sticking your car's weight shut, making it understeer a lot on corners
Rear = your car rear will be pumped up, retarding your grid but will allow you to have a better out-taking of corners, this setting is Highly recommended for Muscles along with a High Suspension, so they'll be able to take on corners with more steering power and less pressure towards the point it loses the grip, spinning off
Steering Angle
Changes the maximum angle that your front wheels can turn at lower speeds
Narrow = a Narrow angle can make your car turn less, though, not a bad choice if you feel that your car is oversteering too much when cornering on narrow sections
Wide = a Wide angle can make your car turn even more, though, can be a bad choice case your car oversteers a lot
Tire Pressure
Tire pressure makes cars more or less grippy
To Drift = The Pressure is elevated, decreasing the tire's contact with the ground, allowing it to slide more
To Grip = The pressure is reduced, increasing the tire's contact with the ground, turning it into a more stable car
Brake Bias
Will determine if your brakes are stronger on the rear or the front
To the Front = Your front brakes will be extremely effective, but might make you spin off if used without any wisdom
To the Rear = Your rear brakes will be more effective, can be a good choice if your car spins off easily, but this brake decreases speed at a lower rate
Center of Mass
Will determine where's the center of mass of your ride
To the Rear = Will make your car less stable and less likely to recover from a sudden spin off, though it will improve it's turning responsiveness a lot
To the Front = Will make your car more stable (specially at high speeds) and easily recoverable from accidental spins, can even make these spins less accidental and more like controlled drifts, but this costs the car's responsiveness during corners, making it less agile on tight corners
Downforce
Changes the effects of aerodynamics into your car, forcing it towards the ground as the speed increases
To the Left = This will allow your car to slide at higher speeds, can be useful if you're trying to run on tracks with corners that should be taken at high speeds but your car is understeering too much and forcing you to reduce the speed too much
To the Right = Will increase it's contact towards the ground at high speeds, preventing from a deadly spin off, though, reduces steering rate at high speeds
Center of Mass VS Tire Pressure
On my latest attempts of Dyno few cars that some think "unbearable to drive" I figured out one common mistake some people do...
The "Meta" setting for Center of Mass and Tire Pressure would be -10 for both, but what happens there?
You put the tires on -10 (total drift) to improve the steering angle of the car
Then you put the car's center of the mass on the rear, so the car won't spin off because the frontal part doesn't has enough mass to subdue the rear's force and cast it aside, causing a spin off. That's nice, a stable car that will steer and won't spin easily.
But there's two points I'd like to point out when doing this kind of setting:
1-Makes the driving unnatural and not so confortable and kinda "limits" the car's steering, not allowing it to make a fast and low angle drift on turns that requires it
2-It doesn't works on all cars
---------------------------------
1-Regardless of what people think, braking and full steering a car, isn't always the best way to go through a corner, sometimes, it's worth not braking and let the own's car weight pull it on a low angled drift on a corner, more difficult and not applyable on all situations but saves you some fraction of second on the overall time and if you do the setting mentioned above, you won't be able to do it properly.
2-Some cars doesn't works with that setting, most of them are those cars that people run away from them, form some handling or suspension issue. THe best example I can give it Uranus, which Center of mass is way upfront, even if you bring it all to the Rear, it still will be on the front, so you won't be able to have much drifty tires, so you can't have tires below -5. On the other hand, I can point out Jester, which spins a lot aswell but for different reasons, if you leave the center of mass between -6 and -2 and tires a little more drifty, you'll be able to make smooth corners which you will slide and not lose control of your car, allowing you to take many types of corners and not paying the utmost price for sliding a bit.
Generally, you know your own car and your own driving skills better than me, with these insights you'll be able to design a better DYNO for yourself.
Drivetrain
This adjustments changes the size of your drivetrain's gears, smaller gears will spin faster, though, they'll reach their maximum rate of rotations quickly, larger gears will take longer to get speed but will have a higher limit...so...
Acceleration = More Acceleration, Less Top Speed
Top Speed = Less Acceleration, More Top Speed
(OBS: Currently, it's better to leave it as it since it's not worth sacrificing too much of one for a bit of the other)
Suspension Stiffness
The Suspension Stiffness will determine the gradual force which will be placed upon the tires during a corner.
Soft/Loose = A soft suspension will allow you to turn with more stability but your car will take a bit longer to reach it's maximum steering rate, while a stiff suspension
Hard/Stiff = will make you steer faster, though, not giving your tires much choice if not, lose grip and slide
Suspension Height
The suspension Height will directly affect your suspension stiffness and the possibility of getting prejudicated by sidewalks and bumps..
High = your steering will become hardened, become very stable and will get it's steering rate decreased, a gripful choice
Low = your car's steering will be softened, will increase it's steering rate but will reduce it's stability during corners
Suspension Bias
Allows you to decide if you want a higher rear or a higher front (just leave it on the middle if you don't know what you want, FWDs try +2, RWD try -2)
Front = your car front will be pumped up, giving you an instantaneous acceleration power, though sticking your car's weight shut, making it understeer a lot on corners
Rear = your car rear will be pumped up, retarding your grid but will allow you to have a better out-taking of corners, this setting is Highly recommended for Muscles along with a High Suspension, so they'll be able to take on corners with more steering power and less pressure towards the point it loses the grip, spinning off
Steering Angle
Changes the maximum angle that your front wheels can turn at lower speeds
Narrow = a Narrow angle can make your car turn less, though, not a bad choice if you feel that your car is oversteering too much when cornering on narrow sections
Wide = a Wide angle can make your car turn even more, though, can be a bad choice case your car oversteers a lot
Tire Pressure
Tire pressure makes cars more or less grippy
To Drift = The Pressure is elevated, decreasing the tire's contact with the ground, allowing it to slide more
To Grip = The pressure is reduced, increasing the tire's contact with the ground, turning it into a more stable car
Brake Bias
Will determine if your brakes are stronger on the rear or the front
To the Front = Your front brakes will be extremely effective, but might make you spin off if used without any wisdom
To the Rear = Your rear brakes will be more effective, can be a good choice if your car spins off easily, but this brake decreases speed at a lower rate
Center of Mass
Will determine where's the center of mass of your ride
To the Rear = Will make your car less stable and less likely to recover from a sudden spin off, though it will improve it's turning responsiveness a lot
To the Front = Will make your car more stable (specially at high speeds) and easily recoverable from accidental spins, can even make these spins less accidental and more like controlled drifts, but this costs the car's responsiveness during corners, making it less agile on tight corners
Downforce
Changes the effects of aerodynamics into your car, forcing it towards the ground as the speed increases
To the Left = This will allow your car to slide at higher speeds, can be useful if you're trying to run on tracks with corners that should be taken at high speeds but your car is understeering too much and forcing you to reduce the speed too much
To the Right = Will increase it's contact towards the ground at high speeds, preventing from a deadly spin off, though, reduces steering rate at high speeds
Center of Mass VS Tire Pressure
On my latest attempts of Dyno few cars that some think "unbearable to drive" I figured out one common mistake some people do...
The "Meta" setting for Center of Mass and Tire Pressure would be -10 for both, but what happens there?
You put the tires on -10 (total drift) to improve the steering angle of the car
Then you put the car's center of the mass on the rear, so the car won't spin off because the frontal part doesn't has enough mass to subdue the rear's force and cast it aside, causing a spin off. That's nice, a stable car that will steer and won't spin easily.
But there's two points I'd like to point out when doing this kind of setting:
1-Makes the driving unnatural and not so confortable and kinda "limits" the car's steering, not allowing it to make a fast and low angle drift on turns that requires it
2-It doesn't works on all cars
---------------------------------
1-Regardless of what people think, braking and full steering a car, isn't always the best way to go through a corner, sometimes, it's worth not braking and let the own's car weight pull it on a low angled drift on a corner, more difficult and not applyable on all situations but saves you some fraction of second on the overall time and if you do the setting mentioned above, you won't be able to do it properly.
2-Some cars doesn't works with that setting, most of them are those cars that people run away from them, form some handling or suspension issue. THe best example I can give it Uranus, which Center of mass is way upfront, even if you bring it all to the Rear, it still will be on the front, so you won't be able to have much drifty tires, so you can't have tires below -5. On the other hand, I can point out Jester, which spins a lot aswell but for different reasons, if you leave the center of mass between -6 and -2 and tires a little more drifty, you'll be able to make smooth corners which you will slide and not lose control of your car, allowing you to take many types of corners and not paying the utmost price for sliding a bit.
Generally, you know your own car and your own driving skills better than me, with these insights you'll be able to design a better DYNO for yourself.
_________________________________________
Well...I bellieve with this guide, many will learn how to make their cars, the best cars they could be driving, and if you have something to add
to this Guide...please PM it to me
RE: General Performance Tuning Guide - bartekPL - 13-04-2017
Nice job. Sticking.
RE: General Performance Tuning Guide - HanzoITS - 19-04-2017
Jeez. Good job, m8. Thx for help)
RE: General Performance Tuning Guide - MatthewChow - 19-04-2017
Well, that last spoiler cleared some doubts. Thanks!
RE: General Performance Tuning Guide - Kemosabe - 19-04-2017
One of the best threads. This needs to be sticked.
RE: General Performance Tuning Guide - deadboy - 19-04-2017
(19-04-2017, 19:50)Kemosabe Wrote: One of the best threads. This needs to be sticked.
(13-04-2017, 20:44)bartekPL Wrote: Nice job. Sticking.
It is already, almost for a week now
RE: General Performance Tuning Guide - MisterJohnson - 20-04-2017
Check out for new updates, soon to be added: Uranus and Bullet
RE: General Performance Tuning Guide - MatthewChow - 21-04-2017
I wonder how long it's gonna take you the Bullet, to get to Uranus. I like Uranus, getting it ready to be my main ride. I still have to make it slide better.
RE: General Performance Tuning Guide - RaiYou - 19-05-2017
"4WD or AWD" correcting your explanation on Sultan.
Also you could add "Some times it loses grip on his back tires on high speeds" on Blista Compact
And futo power Should be considered Low/Medium, cause on max or with decent setup, it accelerates faster as a Cadrona or Previon.
Banshee's grip is Medium/High, it's rare to "Spin out" with banshee, I mean Yeah, he flips very easily beucase of the suspension, but that is not a grip issue.
RE: General Performance Tuning Guide[UPDATED 27/6] - MisterJohnson - 27-06-2017
Updated 26/07/2017
-Added section: "What to Update First?"
Added cars:
-Primo, Emperor, Euros, Uranus, Turismo, Bullet